EXOTIC FLAVOURS FROM MOROCCO
Ross Golden Bannon
The Sunday Business Post

"...all the training in the world won't train someone to go the extra mile. But that is what we got at El Bahia."

If you're trying to book a table at El Bahia, you'll have to be a party of four or more as twosomes have to rely on the will of Allah. If you're not there before 7pm, all the tables are gone; luckily, I was blessed and made it in time to nab one.

I was with a foodie friend who's happy to experiment, making him the perfect guest for a Moroccan restaurant. We ordered a couple of gin-and-tonics with delightful 1:l proportions. Hardly exotic you may say, but they were invented in India by the British as the quinine helped prevent malaria. "Not that we have to worry about that in Ireland," remarked my companion, "you're easily the most poisonous thing here and there's still no cure for you."

Coincidentally, a cure was just what I was looking for and our superbly informed waitress guided us to some north African wine. We ordered a bottle of S'De Sirona Du Maroc, Domaine Ouled Thaled 2006, a syrah which had a big nose but lacked the expected depth of spice. It carried enough kick to match the food though.

Morocco draws its culinary history from a complex past. From Roman antiquity to contemporary France and Spain to the Arabic, Berber and Saharan cultures, it's no wonder Moroccan food has such a wonderful depth of flavour. But could El Bahia deliver on the rich culture it represents?

MOOR PLEASE
Chris Heaney
The Irish Times Magazine

"a full-blown Moroccan dining experience..."

We visited El Bahia on a balmy summer's night and as we ascended the stairs the first thing that struck us was the sound of Moroccan music from above. The restaurant is decorated with Moroccan mirrors, metalwork, wall hangings and cushions. The rooms are lit by ornate lamps, the windows are all curtained - which further enhances the intimate atmosphere - and the overall effect, particularly when the smell of mint wafts out from the kitchen, is of transporting you to a different place - if not quite Marrakesh, at least somewhere other than central Dublin. In marketing-speak terms, a meal here is a complete package.

All of the decorated tableware, and even some of the utensils, are of a traditional design, again adding to the dining experience. To start I opted for harira, the traditional tomato and chickpea soup, which arrived with a pipe-like wooden spoon. It was pleasant but, surprisingly, a little bland and the billed coriander was nowhere to be tasted. Andy's starter of falfla was a plate of roasted peppers with garlic - a constant throughout the Mediterranean - and it was a simple success, with a deliciously subtle smokiness.

As a main course, I chose the Berber couscous, which arrived as a large serving of couscous topped with vegetables and slow cooked lamb, delicately flavoured with cinnamon and so tender that it offered little resistance to a fork. Of the vegetables, the aubergines and courgettes were particularly good and the delicious cooking juices of the lamb soaked into the ample portion of couscous. Andy's elham barcoq was a rich tagine of lamb and prunes with suitably hearty flavours, seasoned with ginger and cinnamon. It was satisfying but would have benefited from being served with some rice or couscous - although in the event I had plenty left over.

We both shunned espressos to sample Moroccan coffee, which was a good call, and we were served a sweet and highly aromatic brew flavoured with sugar, pepper, cinnamon and ginger. It was surprisingly light, fragrant and came served in individual, long-handled pots: a perfect end to a meal that had already proved itself to be an out-of-the-ordinary experience.

MOROCCAN MAGIC
Image

"Real Moroccan food, including delicious mezze, tagines and pasteries, not to mention some good Moroccan wines, are served at prices that won't break the bank"

A taste of North Africa has come to Dublin's Clarendon Street. At El Bahia real Moroccan food, including delicious mezze, tagines and pastries, not to mention some good Moroccan wines, are served at prices that won't break the bank. With sushi stop Aya and Russian restaurant Tsar Ivan just a few doors down, Clarendon Street is becoming quite a culinary haven.

"authentic Moroccan food in surroundings that will make you believe that you're sitting in a Marrakesh souk... delicious shorba and harira soups...
Connoisseurs of Moroccan food will find the Couscous Royal to be as fine a dish as you'd find this side of Casablanca"

EL BAHIA: Dublin's latest addition to the ethnic restaurant scene, offering authentic Moroccan food in surroundings that will make you believe that you're sitting in a Marrakesh souk. If the candles, cushions and real Moroccan decor aren't enough, the Atlas mountains music will definitely do the trick. Tagines, couscous and grills are all available, as well as delicious shorba and harira soups, and El Bahia also provide a range of imported Moroccan wines at reasonable prices. Connoisseurs of Moroccan food will find the Couscous Royal to be as fine a dish as you'd get this side of Casablanca.

"good, honest genuine cooking..."

The menu is surprisingly long, running to three-and-a-half pages. The starters were very good. I'm a sucker for simple foods that are well-prepared and flavoured. Catherine's sardines were a perfect example: done on a griddle, simply served and seasoned with skill, they were a delight. My roasted peppers were equally good. It's a natural reaction - when you get a good starter you instantly relax, confident that you're in the hands of a competent kitchen.

The main courses were just as tasty. Catherine's regal cous cous and my tagine were plentiful and flavoursome. I liked this food; good, honest genuine cooking. It's many good things, like friendly and comfortable.

We had the honeyed pastries as a dessert between us. We accompanied this with two cups of delicious mint tea.